Perrin 3-port BCS

Would the Perrin 3-port V2 boost control solenoid be a worthwhile mod to go with a remap?
Thanks,
Paul.

What is the current one - 2 or 3 port?

I think in the past there was better boost control with a 3 port so maybe same here, but maybe the current OEM one and the fancy ECU may be capable enough?

current unit is a 2 port. a 3 port is a very worthwhile mod to do before remap as it will control the boost on the turbo better

Thanks for the replies, looks like a raid on JP4mance for one of these along with a fuel pump and uprated plugs to go with as AEM caik before the remap.

Rob,
Would you say an oil catch tank was needed, going for 400ft/lbs.
Thanks,
Paul.

Well to be honest yes its worth fitting a catch can, I'm sick of doing heavy starts and throwing oil into the intake so I'm now piping mine up now, I did have the pcv bypassed but I figure I'm going to put it back in place just to draw moisture vapour out of the crankcase

Thanks Rob, couldn't do a bit of a guide for the Catch tank fitting could you, which pipes and the like. It would be a great help and much appreciated.
Thanks,
Paul.

Yeah No problem mate, I'll do a guide with some pictures as I fit mine this week

Look forward to it.
Thanks,
Paul.

How about a guide for the 3 port boost solenoid too?
And fuel pump??

You doing these yourself Paul, or are Prosport??

Is this OK to do well before a remap?


Thanks

vulnax wrote:

You doing these yourself Paul, or are Prosport??

Is this OK to do well before a remap?

I'll give it a go or take it to Christopher Neil if needs be.

Was planning to do it all just before remapping.

ive been told by JGM there's no need for a 3 port before mapping on the GR

Exactly Bushi, as it needs be mapped for as it operates differently to the std 2 port boost control solenoid, and faster so better control of boost - the mapping takes account ofthis.

Paul,

I'll PM you some info on mapping .... The guy who does Roger Clark Gobstopper and WRC, touring cars, may well be doing mine with Race rom in a couple of weeks, we'll use the rollers at Ric Woods Racing in Stockport, hopefully finish on road.

I'm looking at the ECUTek 800 cc/min injectors before we map too and maybe fuel pump.

vulnax wrote:
How about a guide for the 3 port boost solenoid too?
And fuel pump??

You doing these yourself Paul, or are Prosport??

Is this OK to do well before a remap?


Thanks

3 port is a breeze mate, One pipe to the wastegate/one pipe to the compressor housing, and one vacuum pipe to the intake on the turbo.

as for the fuel pump, well unless your confident doing it yourself leave it to some one else lol

but you remove the rear bench seat just pulls out.

take the 4 screws outta the tin panel on the os

remove fuel filler cap to release any pressure in the tank
Undo the fuel pipes and electrical multi plug
take out the ring of 8mm nuts
Gently lift out the fuel canister, being carefull not to break the fuel level sender.

once outta the car unclip all 4 plastic clips and pull the lower half of the unit out
Now unplug the fuel pump wires and remove bag filter from old pump.

At the top of the fuel pump gently prise out the security clips and pull out the old pump.

Take note of plastic sleeve and o-ring position
Inside where the pump locates you need to grind off the plastic tabs that run along side where the shaft of the pump runs up in order for a larger pump to be fitted.

Once done clean up and plastic shavings fit the plastic sleeve and o-ring to the new pump I at this point fitted an extra o-ring Known as double stacking.
Gently push in the new pump and connect the wires and refit the old bag filter & basically clip the lower half of the cannister bag on, this will be quite difficult as the new pump is slightly longer but I can assure you it will fit without much issue.

Then reassemble the car and prime it up.

Neil,
I'll PM you about the remap, don't think I'll need the injectors as I should meet my aims with with just the fuel pump.

Rob,
Thanks for the info. I've got the manual and the 3 port and pump came with some good instructions and pics from JP4mance so I'll give it a go.

Thanks,
Paul.

Rob wrote: 3 port is a breeze mate, One pipe to the wastegate/one pipe to the compressor housing, and one vacuum pipe to the intake on the turbo.

Rob, the last one, is that just a return to the inlet for the spare air bled from the pressure to the wastegate?

The ones to wastegate capsule and turbo compressurenipple are fine!

vulnax wrote:

Rob wrote: 3 port is a breeze mate, One pipe to the wastegate/one pipe to the compressor housing, and one vacuum pipe to the intake on the turbo.

Rob, the last one, is that just a return to the inlet for the spare air bled from the pressure to the wastegate?

The ones to wastegate capsule and turbo compressurenipple are fine!

Just spotted that, the instructions say to vent to atmosphere (leave port open) would it make a difference if you feed it in to the inlet as doesn't that runs under vacuum?

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/universal/asmtac725.pdf

Thanks,
Paul.

I assume it is fitted like the AVC-R = turbo to boost controller, boost controller to wastegate capsule, bleed off spare pressurised air to atmos from port 3.

such little volume of air it's not like a VTA dump valve upsetting the measured air

Had a look at this on Sunday.... dead easy!

The nipple on the turbo compressor housing has a small hose to the wastegate inlet nipple, with a T piece in the middle which goes to the OEM boost control solenoid. Pull off these 2 hoses on turbo compressor and wastegate and follow thesmall T'd hose upwards to the boost controller.

The tin plate on the manifold, o/s and in front of throttle body seems to be where the OEM boost control solenoid is, unbolt the shield and unbolt the boost controller. Unplug the connector.

Using the Perrin mounting bracket where the bolt holds the old BC mount the 3 port. The 2 hoses go to the turbo and the wastegate as per the instruction - the top port and one side port, the 3rd left open to vent spare pressure.

Plug in electrical connector.

Refit tin plate!

Remap!

Putting mine in place ready to swap the hoses and plug just before mapping.

Rob wrote:Yeah No problem mate, I'll do a guide with some pictures as I fit mine this week

Rob,

Did you get any pics of this install?


I have found 2 hoses on each cam cover, 1 pair seem to meet via the black pipe on the TMIC, the 1st o/s pipe goes into inlet pipe, can't see where o/s 2nd pipe goes to under the TMIC... but seems to become a metal pipe screwed to block or manifold?

Nearside can't see where the 2nd hose goes.

And can't find crankcase breather!!



Help please!!

Cheers

vulnax wrote:

Rob wrote:Yeah No problem mate, I'll do a guide with some pictures as I fit mine this week

Rob,

Did you get any pics of this install?


I have found 2 hoses on each cam cover, 1 pair seem to meet via the black pipe on the TMIC, the 1st o/s pipe goes into inlet pipe, can't see where o/s 2nd pipe goes to under the TMIC... but seems to become a metal pipe screwed to block or manifold?

Nearside can't see where the 2nd hose goes.

And can't find crankcase breather!!



Help please!!

Cheers

Just been dropped off this evening so I'll take some pictures, crank breather to the left of the throttle body right down on the block with a black pipe connecting into the air intake tract.

the two pipes on each cam cover ones bigger than the other, take the smaller pipe off as this is the proper cam breather, the bigger one is linked to the crank breather pipe which is hidden

Cheers Rob, I'll have a look for that sneaky crank pipe tomorrow.

Rob,

Any pics or step by step for routing the cam cover breathers ( I think you said the smaller / rear ones go to the oil catch can ? )
I can't find anything in the workshop manual on these?

Any suggestions to plug holes in inlet pipe, and what I'd need to do to remove the pipe at fromt of TMIC, as several of these breathers use it and they seem to join!

Also best place to get at crank case breather where it returns to inlet?

I have a mocal oil catch can and 13mm oil hose to sort this, and will have Perrin inlet hose on when injectors changed so would like to get all done at same time!

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=1679&g=3134&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Motorsport.

Cheers again,

Neil

Right just bare with me here on this. I forgot to take pictures of mine but I can tell you how to plumb it in.



See my catch tank assy has the 3 ports on the rh side of it, The front one closest to the radiator is basically manipulated right down onto the rocker cover on the rear port which is the smallest one, remove the oem pipe off there and pull it out of the bracket work around the inlet manifold and finally take it off the breather cross over tube and disguard it.

Look down to the left of the throttle body infront of the pinky/redy intercooler hose you will see the crank breather pipe from the block to the intake duct on the turbo, pull that hose off both ends and disguard it, Take the middle hose from the catch can and route along the base of the water header tank and manipulate around to the right and basically route the pipe down straight onto the crank breather port sticking up from the connector thats off the block. You then need to blank the intake port off on the intake pipe where the normal breather would have gone, I used a plastic bung from work I had spare from some pipe fittings.

Next step take the final pipe from the catch can and route along the base of the water header tank and connect onto the breather cross over tube from where you remove the pipe in step one.

You then need to block off the pipe that runs over the top and down over the intake manifold, I used a rubber bung a bit like a tyre valve affair and pushed it deep inside the pipe and just left it looking like it was connected in the first place.

and finally my catch can vent pipe goes into the wheel arch and under the car out of the way.

I can take some pics tomorrow if that would be of help.

Please note this setup retains the cars PCV system, Most cars on the road dont get hot enough to evaporate the moisture in the crankcase, so by keeping the pcv it draws this out of the engine